Ford Escape 2013-2019 Common Problems (3rd Gen)

# Ford Escape 2013–2019 Common Problems (3rd Generation)

The third-generation Ford Escape debuted in 2013, representing a radical departure from the boxy, truck-like design of its predecessor. Embracing a sleek, aerodynamic, European-inspired aesthetic, it quickly became one of the best-selling compact SUVs in America. Ford packed it with high-tech features and introduced their "EcoBoost" lineup of small-displacement, turbocharged engines, promising V6 power with 4-cylinder fuel economy.

Unfortunately, this generation of the Escape has proven to be a reliability nightmare on the used market. The aggressive push for smaller, hotter-running turbocharged engines resulted in fundamental design flaws that can outright destroy the vehicle's engine block. Coupled with a fragile transmission and plagued by numerous electrical gremlins, buying a used 2013-2019 Ford Escape is an incredibly high-risk endeavor that demands absolute vigilance and a thorough mechanical inspection before purchasing.

Overall Reliability Snapshot

To put it bluntly, the third-gen Escape has one of the poorest long-term reliability track records in its segment, vastly trailing competitors like the Toyota RAV4 and Honda CR-V. The core of the problem lies within the two EcoBoost engine options (the 1.5L and 1.6L, and to a slightly lesser extent, the 2.0L). These engines suffer from a massive, well-documented engineering failure involving the engine block design that allows coolant to leak directly into the cylinders, destroying the motor.

The only genuinely reliable powertrain offered during this entire seven-year production run was the base-model, naturally aspirated 2.5-liter four-cylinder engine. If you can find a lower-trim Escape with the basic 2.5L engine, it is surprisingly dependable. However, if you are looking at any model with an "EcoBoost" badge on the tailgate, you are looking at a vehicle with a notoriously high probability of catastrophic engine failure.

Most Common Problems

1. EcoBoost Coolant Intrusion (Engine Destruction)

What happens: You start the car in the morning and it runs extremely rough, violently shaking and misfiring for roughly 20 to 30 seconds before smoothing out. Thick, sweet-smelling white smoke billows constantly from the tailpipe. You notice you are constantly having to top off the engine coolant reservoir, yet there is no visible puddle under the car. Eventually, the check engine light illuminates, and the engine permanently overheats or hydro-locks.

Why it happens: This is a fatal engineering flaw. Ford utilized an "open deck" engine block design on the 1.5L and 1.6L EcoBoost engines (and early 2.0L models). The thin slivers of metal between the engine cylinders often crack or warp under extreme heat. Once this barrier fractures, engine coolant pours directly into the combustion cylinders. The engine literally burns its own coolant until it runs dry and destroys itself.

How to check in 20 minutes: This is critical. Before starting the car, open the hood and ensure the engine has completely cooled. Check the coolant reservoir; if it is significantly below the "MIN" line, that is a massive red flag. Next, start the car cold. If the engine aggressively stumbles and shakes for 10 seconds before smoothing out, coolant has pooled in the cylinders overnight and the engine is actively burning it. Run away immediately.

Typical repair cost: The engine cannot be patched or rebuilt. Ford requires replacing the entire engine block with an updated "closed deck" "short block" design. Including labor, replacing an EcoBoost engine costs between $5,500 and $7,500.

Negotiation leverage: There is no negotiation here. This is a fatal blow to the car. Unless the seller can provide a physical, verifiable receipt from a Ford dealership proving the engine block was already replaced with the updated, redesigned variant, absolutely do not buy the vehicle under any circumstances. It is a total loss waiting to happen.

2. 6F35 Automatic Transmission Failure

What happens: The transmission firmly clunks or violently shudders when shifting between 2nd and 3rd gear. Putting the vehicle into Reverse from Park occasionally results in a loud "bang" and a 2-second delay before the gear actually engages. In severe cases, the transmission slips out of gear entirely while driving at highway speeds, leaving you without any acceleration.

Why it happens: The 6F35 six-speed automatic transmission is heavily prone to overheating, especially when bolted to the hotter-running turbocharged engines or when used for light towing. Overheating degrades the fluid rapidly, leading to the destruction of the internal valve body, bands, and clutch packs.

How to check in 20 minutes: You must take the car on a test drive and bring it up to full operating temperature. From a dead stop, accelerate smoothly but firmly up to 50 mph. Pay very close attention to the shift between 2nd and 3rd gear. If the car hesitates, revs up freely without accelerating (slipping), or kicks you hard in the back as it drops into gear under load, the transmission is failing.

Typical repair cost: A fully rebuilt or remanufactured 6F35 transmission installed at an independent shop will cost around $3,000 to $4,000.

Negotiation leverage: An actively slipping transmission is a massive liability. Unless you are buying the car for literal pennies on the dollar with the explicit intention of replacing the transmission immediately, walk away. Point out the hard shifting and use it to justify abandoning the deal.

3. Faulty Purge Valve Causing Stalling

What happens: The check engine light illuminates (usually with code P1450). Immediately after filling the gas tank at a gas station, the car struggles to start. You have to crank the engine for 5 to 10 seconds, and when it finally starts, it sputters violently and tries to stall until you aggressively rev the engine.

Why it happens: The Evaporative Emissions (EVAP) purge valve, which routes gasoline vapor from the fuel tank into the engine to be safely burned, becomes stuck in the open position. When you fill the tank with fuel, raw liquid gas is forced past the stuck valve directly into the engine intake, completely flooding the engine with fuel.

How to check in 20 minutes: Ask the seller to meet you at a gas station, or take the car to a gas station during the test drive and put $5 of gas in it. Try to start the car immediately after putting the gas cap back on. If the engine refuses to start or violently coughs and stumbles, the purge valve is dead.

Typical repair cost: This is thankfully one of the few cheap repairs on an Escape. Replacing the EVAP purge valve assembly takes about 30 minutes and costs roughly $150 to $200 at a local mechanic.

Negotiation leverage: This is a fantastic bartering point because the symptom (the car refusing to start at a gas station) is terrifying to a seller, but the fix is very cheap. Feign concern over the stalling engine and ask for a $300 discount to cover diagnostics and repair.

What This Generation Gets Right

• The Base 2.5L Engine: While the turbocharged EcoBoost engines are nightmares, the base-level 2.5-liter naturally aspirated 4-cylinder engine (typically only found in the base "S" trim or fleet vehicles) is remarkably stout and reliable. It lacks power, but it will easily last 200,000 miles without suffering from coolant intrusion.
• Handling and Dynamics: Because the Escape shares its underlying chassis architecture with the agile Ford Focus, it is genuinely fun to drive on a winding road, offering sharp steering and excellent body control for a crossover SUV.
• SYNC 3 Infotainment (2016+): For the 2016 model year, Ford replaced the universally hated, laggy "MyFord Touch" system with the vastly superior SYNC 3 interface. SYNC 3 is highly responsive, intuitive, and supports Apple CarPlay and Android Auto.

Fast Pre-Purchase Checklist

• Ensure the engine is completely cold. Check the coolant level in the reservoir; if it is low, and the car aggressively shakes and white-smokes upon starting, the engine block is cracked and consuming coolant. Do not buy it.
• Take a long test drive, bringing the transmission up to full heat. Accelerate firmly and note any harsh kicking, slipping, or long delays specifically between the 2nd and 3rd gear shifts.
• Stop at a gas station, add a small amount of fuel, and verify the vehicle starts cleanly without extended cranking or sputtering, which indicates a stuck EVAP purge valve.
• Test the infotainment screen. If the interface is divided into four distinct color quadrants (the old MyFord Touch system), expect a laggy, frustrating user experience.

Should You Buy One?

Generally speaking, no. The 2013-2019 Ford Escape equipped with an EcoBoost engine is simply too dangerous of an investment for a used car buyer on a budget. The coolant intrusion issue is not a matter of "if," but "when," and it will utterly destroy the engine, leaving you with a $6,000 repair bill that eclipses the value of the vehicle.

The only viable way to purchase this generation of Escape is to specifically hunt down a base "S" trim model equipped with the non-turbocharged 2.5-liter engine. If you must have a higher trim level, you should only consider vehicles where the seller can provide a physical dealership receipt proving the EcoBoost engine short block has already been replaced with the updated, fault-free version. Without that golden piece of paper, you are buying a grenade with the pin already pulled. Your money is vastly better spent on a comparable Honda CR-V or Toyota RAV4.